This corset pattern is similar in basic construction to the previous one I made for this pattern. This corset is in two pieces instead of three though.
I started by cutting out my fabric. I cut three layers of canvas for this corset. I wanted good structure in this corset and I highly recommend extra layers of fabric compared to the two you are supposed to cut out. Loriann Costume Designs, the original pattern maker, suggests three layers of cotton and one of canvas in her Joker corset walk through. The pattern package calls for one layer of outside fabric and one of canvas. I'm assuming it is to cut the fabric costs down for the casual costume maker.
I sewed the layers together for the outside and then the lining and ironed them out.
Then I pinned the two pieces with right sides together and sewed around the sides and upper edge. The corners and curves were clipped and the edges trimmed to 1/4".
I flipped the pieces right side out and pressed them flat and drew on the stitching lines for the boning. I regret waiting so long to do this. This corset loses a lot of the straightness by being sewn together and it makes it hard to transfer the lines. I suggest drawing on the lines after you cut out the pieces. At least for the printed stitching lines. Obviously you cannot draw on lines for the edges until after the piece has been sewn together.
Also, on Loriann's blog she shows her method of inserting the boning which I think is awesome and would never have thought of. I, however, lack the confidence to do it her way for this corset. However when I make a version of the 1095 corset I might go ahead and do it that way. I really like how her way doesn't require any bias tape on the edge of the corset.
Anyway, after all the lines were drawn on I stitched them in and started inserting the boning.
Once the boning was inserted I slipped the bias tape over the raw edge and sewed it down. Then I punched out the grommet holes and did a test fitting before I installed the actual grommets. After making sure everything was good I installed the grommets and it was complete!
The lacing is really wide in the back because my mannequin is larger than my friend is. I also made this a little smaller than her regular measurements because she works out quite a bit and I didn't want her to not be able to fit into the costume because she lost weight.
Also, the main changes that are different than the patter directions are:
-I used industrial zip ties that are a little bit smaller than 1/2" causing me to adjust the boning channels to be 1/2" wide.
-I used 5/16" grommets (the package calls for a wayyy bigger size)
-I didn't follow the directions for the bias tape. I just slipped it over the raw edge rather than their complicated way.
-I used three layers of canvas (outside, inside, and lining) instead of the one suggested for the lining.
I hope reading this has helped with preparing to make this costume. I always find blogs like these so incredibly helpful before I start on a project.
Here are the links to the previous pieces in this set:
Skirt, Bustle, & Top
Shrug
Have a great day!
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