Simplicity 4059 - Men's Doublet (View B)

I saved the best for last in this three part project for the Simplicity 4059 pattern. This was such a daunting task. It loomed over my head like a black cloud because the amount of details and little things I would have to add to this project.

I started with the main fabric and built on that. I didn't know what to make the lining color as. I had found a nice bottom weight fabric in burgundy that matched the binding/edges of my fancy dress we bought at the Renaissance Festival two years ago. I had planned on using it to make the binding of the doublet so they had some thread that held the two outfits together. I tried very hard to find some red color that would match the doublet. No place had it. I was so disappointed. I didn't trust buying it online because of how many times I have seen someone order something thinking it was one color but turned out to be another. So I gave up and used something that was similar to the contrast edges of my dress.

The three layers of fabric used for the doublet

Close up of the main fabric.

I loved how the fabric looks like little flames. I assume its a floral design but it looks so much like flames that I refer to it as "the flame doublet".

When I started cutting out the main fabric I finally decided that since I had gotten extra of the bottom weight fabric I'd use it as the lining as well as binding. Until then I had contemplated using red or black broadcloth I had in my stash. In the end I made a good choice because it gave the doublet more of the stiffness I wanted. I didn't want a floppy doublet. I felt like it would be too costumy and cheap feeling. 

I cut out the muslin first and fitted it. The small was a perfect fit for Charles. I used a fabric that was slightly thinner than canvas as the muslin. When putting the pieces together I decided that I wanted to use the muslin as another layer in the doublet to give it more stability and form. The above picture shows all three layers I used while making the flanges.   

 

I drew the lines on the muslin for fun just to see what it would look like. It looked pretty good. I unpinned everything and started working on some easy parts. I was super nervous to put it all together with my top fabric. I received this fabric via a windfall and only had just enough to finish this project and that was all. So I started with the flanges which were easy to put together. The three layers plus the interfacing made it the perfect stiffness. I set those aside and started working on the trim for the front and back of the doublet.

I took one inch wide strips of fabric and pressed the sides in to make a 1 cm wide strip. It was tedious since I don't have a bias machine thing. I sewed the back two pieces of the doublet outside and muslin together and marked, with chalk, the lines the bias tape was going to go on. I pinned all of the vertical pieces on first and then sewed them down. Then I added the horizontal piece. I did the same thing to the front doublet pieces after ironing on the interfacing.

For the lining I sewed the pieces together at the shoulders and the back seam. I almost wish that I had cut one piece on the fold for the back. It seemed silly to have the back in two pieces since you are supposed to sew them together first anyway. I thought maybe you were supposed to put the trim on and then sew the two back pieces together but it didn't say that in the directions.

Once I had the lining and outer layer put together I sewed on the flanges and put the lining together. Then I flipped everything right side out and pressed everything down.

The inside of the flange before side seams were connected.

I had some issues connecting the side seams. I have no idea why it was being bunchy and weird. Eventually I just got pissed and did the best I could. One side looks perfect while the other side puffs out a bit. Still hardly noticeable unless you were looking for it.

Once the side seams were done I started working on the peplum pieces. I attached them all without any problems and slip stitched the bottom of the lining closed. For the peplum pieces I decided to skip putting a border around each piece and the top actually looked the better for it. I had also decided to skip adding a middle piece on the top trim and thought it looked better as well. Less flashy than it would have looked had I added it.

Once it was all put together I just needed to add the grommets. I found some really nice bronze ones at Hobby Lobby. They looked perfect for the top instead of shiny gold or silver.

The finished product was lovely. It was a very easy patter and I would definitely make it again. 

The whole outfit looks great on him! He said it was very comfortable and he really liked it a lot. 

Below are links to the previous posts on this pattern:
The shirt
The pants